Back in ‘Murica

So when Dan posted was *not* our last day we did not make standby and so had to keep fingers crossed that the afternoon crossing on 10/6 would be made. Our host very graciously invited us to stay in the rental on Friday until we had to leave for the ferry, which we very much appreciated because this is what we woke up to:

It rained off and on all morning, but the wind was [mind-] blowing at 38 mph. We were grateful not to have to leave the rental. 

Did we let y’all know that Cody finally got his suitcase, 85 hours after they landed in Grand Rapids? It had been scanned in Newark, where they connected, but ended up taking a little vacay to Denver. Yeesh.

The afternoon ferry *did* sail on fairly calm seas. We got to port around 6:30 PM and started the drive to Inverness.  I was white-knuckled all of the way, since it was dark, raining, and on narrow two-lanes highways all the way. Dan was a patient navigator, but we were both relieved to get to our hotel. Dan unloaded and I returned the car, leaving a £5000 hold charge on our credit card to cover the damage from the restricted-post and/or tire blowing damage.

Our plane from Inverness left at 7 AM, so we were at the airport at 4:30 AM. That flight was delayed because of weather in London and the dreaded “mechanical issues,” but we made it to our plane with a little time to spare. Sitting in business class made things much more comfy, and we are grateful that we had the miles to do that! Dan is always happier toward the front of the plane.

The rest of the trip has been (so far) uneventful. We connected in Newark - what a clean airport it was! - and spent the nite there (not in the airport!!!). We are currently in Charlotte, waiting on our last flight, and I took a photo just before we landed. Our hearts are happy to see our mountains in the background.

We had a fun trip and saw beautiful things, but we are both very happy to be home. Dan and I feel like we live on vacation in a gorgeous part of the country. He will get back to his woodworking, and I will get back to my garden, and we are both excited about spending another beautiful fall in WNC. 

Until the next adventure… Thanks for joining us on this one!

Last day? Who knows?

Dan’s perspective:

Got up this morning and headed to the ring of Brodgar. This Neolithic ring is some 2900 years older than Stonehenge. It originally had 60 stones. It is also a World Heritage site that has been used in movies and as a tank training ground in 1941.

After the Ring, we visited Skara Brae, a prehistoric stone-built settlement. Again, it is around 5000 years old. 

In this one, you can see the stone beds, an area for storage and display, and a fire pit. 

At this point, things really shifted. We found out that the morning ferry back to the mainland was most likely canceled due to weather conditions. Sooo, rather than wait for the Friday afternoon ferry, which would mean Vicki driving these narrow roads in the dark to Inverness, we hoped to get on standby for TODAY’s ferry. 

We still stopped for lunch - we aren’t crazy - but afterwards, we went back to the rental, packed and prepped as if we were not returning, and headed for the ferry office. We were the last car in line on standby. We sat there in the rain (of course it was raining!) for more than an hour and a half, waiting to find out if we made the cut. 

Friends, we did not make the cut. So back to our rental to unpack and figure out where dinner will be. I have no pictures of the ferry office, nor of the line we were in. Aren’t you glad? 

Vicki’s perspective:

I have a photo of us in line at the ferry terminal:

My experience of this morning and afternoon was my planning brain going into overdrive and overloading Dan with questions while I’m driving to and from the old shit that’s on our list of things to see: Can you find out if there is another ferry from another port that takes vehicles today? Can you find out if we can get on a wait list for a ferry? Can you figure out where we will stay if we get on the ferry tonite? Where do we stay if tomorrow afternoon’s ferry gets cancelled? If we have to re-arrange our flights home, what needs to get done for next week?

Then I needed peanut m&ms, so we stopped to get those after Dan stopped to get seasickness pills for whenever we get onto the ferry again. 

There is a resignation that settles in once something is finalized, and that can feel peaceful, but when something is not finalized and all of the “what ifs” are firing in my head, I just want to stop whatever is scheduled and get the questions answered. Not fun for anyone, I know. I’m working on it. 

Our host is being so very gracious and letting us stay tomorrow as long as needed. If you come to Orkney, stay at the Buxa Chalet. Kathy from Detroit will take care of you.  Plus, the views are fantastic. 

Here are some other photos from today:

The bull turned just as I took the photo. 

Here he is!

Old shit

Info about the old shit. 

I am guessing that this and the one below are cairns. 

Kirkwall to South Ronaldsay

This morning, Vicki and I headed over to Kirkwall. The plan was to find a store at which we could buy a few gifts. On the way, however, we passed by the Scapa Distillery, the maker of the fine single malt I had the evening before. Quick detour, a quick sample of their cask-strength 8-year old (not available in the USA), and a quick purchase. I now have my bottle to take home. 

Vicki got us into Kirkwall, although finding parking is a serious undertaking. We finally parked in a lot next to St. Magnus Cathedral. We scooted down the street (pedestrians only), and found our shop. After loading up on some items, and sadly walking away from other items (especially the smoked fish), we made our way back to the car. I ran for a quick tour of the St. Magnus grounds and building. It was quite nice. (I, Vicki, stayed with the car so that we wouldn’t get towed.)

These are the ruins of the Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces nearby.

There is a lovely graveyard.

The interior vaults

On the outside

This is a tomb inside containing Majorie and Beatrix Smyths, who died at age 16 and 14, the first in 1666, the second in 1669.

Lunchtime! It would be horrible to skip a meal. We had reservations at the Lynnfield Restaurant - and were the only people dining there at lunch. 

After lunch, we headed for the Italian Chapel, built by Italian prisoners of war who were held here during WWII. They began with two Nissen huts, later covered with concrete, and built this chapel, using concrete and salvaged materials from a wrecked ship. The image of Jesus over the front door is  carved concrete. The iron pieces on the altar were metals from the scrapped ship.

Much of the decor was painted - true trompe l’œil.

Just a little further south was something called the Viking Totem pole. We went, expecting something created centuries ago, but instead it was something a local artist had likely erected. It was neither old, nor particularly meaningful. But we saw it, dammit, so therefore it must be photographed and acknowledged. 

By now it was raining hard and making life difficult, but Vicki found a store selling ice cream, so we headed further south onto South Ronaldsay island. However, this being October, they were no longer selling scooped ice cream, so Vicki had to settle for something out of the freezer.

The rain continued, so we decided to can the plans to walk downtown Kirkwall, and instead headed for Tesco to buy dinner to take back to our place. 

Have we mentioned the rainbows here? On our way back, we saw rainbows 25-29, including double rainbows. And back at our place, we saw number 30. I have never seen such intense colors as some of these have had. Stunning. 

Taking advantage of a lull in the weather, Vicki and I walked down to the beach behind our lodging. This is not a sandy beach, and it is not something easily walked. I took a step into the seaweed and almost sank. Our plan to walk the beach was abandoned, and we returned to the warmth of our rental. 

A shot back toward our rental

Walking toward the beach behind our rental

And finally, some of the locals who met us on our return.

And at last, sunset: